WHITE SWAN, YE OLD WHITE SWAN – MARKET PLACE

1883 map of Market Place.

LRO has ‘Leicester notes and queries’ written in 1889, where it mentions:

“White Swan in the Market Place, a very old & characteristic building of a remote passed age, c 1500 now alas being improved from the face of the earth, our old historical landmarks will soon be obliterated and the old historic town of Leicester will hardly know itself ”If whoever wrote this knew only the half of it, they would despair.

Early licensees 1818 Wm Richardson, 1828 Chas Thorpe, 1835 Thomas Sharpeless, 1840 Edward Sharpeless (not known if same as in 1828 or relation) 1848 Thomas Watson (see ad below)

Ad from 1848 notifying of victualer changeover.

1855 Thomas Hall, 1870 Thomas Foxon until 1889 when John Collins was victular, John Collins was also a fish monger and game dealer, he was one of the first dealers in the new covered fish market that opened in 1877.

John Collins & his brother Robert.

John Collins had moved from the Salmon in Butt Close Lane, his family through his children and grandchildren carried on the business in Leicester Market ( Graham Barker, Trading Stories, Working Lives). I well remember John Collins Fish Stall in the old Victorian Fish Market, a most popular name with old Leicester folk. (for more info on John Collins fishmonger see www.auntiemabel.org)

Through out John Collins time at the Swan many events and meetings would take place as an ad in LDP ran DONT FORGET the GRAND ALL ENGLAND CAGE BIRD EXHIBITION Sat 15-17th Nov 1890 admission 6d and 3d and Dont Forget. Also RABBIT and CAVY SHOW including All England winners May 1891. The Theatre Royal working staff would hold their after performance annual dinner here at the White Swan.

By 1898 Wm Hall was licensee, followed by Alf Henry Robins

Circa 1900 Alf Robins was victualer.

Pre 19th cent info. 1677, Recorded kept by William Savage with a rent of £2 per year.

1698 a fascinating story was reported, a man was indicted and tried for impersonating the Duke of Monmouth, the illegitimate son (James Scott) of King Charles 11, he was imprisoned, treated like a prince, the goaler charging 2 pence a piece to visit him, At his trial he admitted to be the son of the landlord of the White Swan in the Market place Leicester, he pleaded that he never intended to deceive but people just mistook him for the Kings son.

1799, put up for auction – Widow Mary Wood the landlady. The White Swans address was given as St James Square.

Brewed its own beer, but by end of 19th century Ind Coope were supplying the beer, eventually purchasing the free hold circa 1924.

Ind Coope would own it until its demise.

Ye Old White Swan.

Some time after the turn of the centaury, as many old inns did, prefixed YE OLDE to its name.

During the 1830s, whilst Mr Sharpless was landlord, Wm Lewin was engaged to paint the windows of the White Swan, whilst up on the third floor the two uprights of the ladder he was working on snapped through, precipitating Wm from the top window of the third story to the ground, fortunately for him his fall was broken by an iron railing that passed over the adjoining house, such was the force in which Wm’s body crashed over the thick iron bar that the bar was bent to an extent that it rendered the fall to be broken before his further descent to the ground, Wm was lucky to be alive, shocked and dazed but suffering from no broken bones. Wm Lewin was seen in the White Swan the same evening. (They bred them hard in those days)

Later in that decade landlord Mr Sharpless’s wife Mary, died unexpectedly aged only 33 leaving four young children.

The newspaper article on the left is from The Leicester Fosse (City)  Football Club’s inaugural Smoking Concert.

 White Swan

The White Swan was throughout Georgian and Victorian Leicester one of the most popular inns. Whilst the great and good dined mainly at the Three Crown or Three Cranes, the middle classes seemed to congregate toward the White Swan, so many clubs and associations met and had their suppers here, too many to mention a whole volume could be written.

Auctions, FWK’s associations, Football Association, Political parties, Oddfellows lodges, Leicester Bicycle Club, Leicester Swimming Club, even The Fancy Rabbit and Coney Society was launched here in 1891 and held its subsequent Rabbit shows here.

The White Swan was a real gem in Leicester’s pubs sometime missed by the media as it’s position, somewhat tucked away from the main thoroughfares, as this pic shows, the closeness of the stalls, this fabric stall, popular in the 1960’s -70’s, Liz and I were fortunate to stand market selling fabric when making clothes from lengths of cloth was very popular throughout this period.

The local ‘Teddy boys’ used the White Swan, being close to the Corn Exchange where the Yanks who were stationed here would go to the dances there. It was a good excuse for the local lads to engage in a ‘ruck’ or two with the ‘Yanks’ who were not liked by the townies, because of their money which often turned a girls head.

After the Americans had gone the ‘Teds’ still used the ‘Swan’ up until the mid-late 60’s when the so called smarter Italian suits and look had taken over.

During this time a barman ‘camp’ Cyril was in charge behind the bar, never underestimate Cyril, although he was very effeminate in his ways, he was held in high regard and respect, the thing was, Cyril could handle himself, didn’t seemed frightened of anyone, although I never witnessed it he allegedly kept a ‘weapon’ under the bar in case of trouble, stories are legion of him and perhaps have gained myth status, I called in one Saturday morning to meet a mate ‘Prof’ proudly decked out in his new uniform, home on his first leave from the Navy, on entering much to Profs embarrassment Cyril serenaded him with “All the nice boys love a sailor” .

Some years after the pubs demise Liz and I was sat in the Bowlturners when Cyril came in dapper looking his grey hair still perfectly coiffed.

Barry Lount
The White Swan in the 1960s was one of the Leicester pubs that ‘housed’ Jazz nights, popular at the time, we are indebted to George Brown for the copy of the flyer.’

This colour photo from Rob Hubble (Made in Leicester)

The White Swan closed briefly in the 1960s to re open as a ‘Bernie’ steak bar, wrong pub wrong position for that. The writing was on the wall.

Early 1970s boarded up, a missed opportunity to play to the pubs strengths, which was its age and character.

The end circa 1973, I can’t remember an outcry over its demise. The White Swan seemed to slip under radar as regards to redevelopment, the Haymarket was taking the attention. I think maybe the thoughts of a new improved indoor market for the fish etc took the mind off what it was replacing, we soon realised that the new exciting indoor market proved to be a disappointment, architecturally a dull uninteresting block, dark and unfriendly. By 2015 this 70s abortion was to fall to the demolitions hammer itself, few tears were shed, but to build it Leicester had lost a jewel in its pub crown, I’m not sure it would happen today, the Mayor (2015) I’m sure would have deep reservations about losing this gem. No one who cared for our historical buildings seemed to have influence with the planners, but we were only the hoi polloi to gaze at the planners patting their own backs. Smegelski’s destruction of Leicester was at its height, we could only look on to what was to become of our historic city. So the introductory 1889 notes had come a full circle

Barry Lount
Lovely insight from Mark Davey pointing out that Jazz wasn’t the only music played here as in 1967 a young Joni Mitchell introduced her song ‘Song for a Seagull’ at the White Swan. (Please see Marks comment below).
Also Clive Collins tells us of the Couriers Folk Club ran by Jack Harris & Rex Brisland was prominent at the White Swan ,from c1965 the history of the Couriers can be found on their leicester blog
Old White Swan was purchased by Ind Coope 1924
There is a 1964 film by Ray Gosling on Leicester that features the White Swan and the ‘Townies’ that used it, captures the era superbly, it can be found on You Tube

14 Comments

  1. I have a nice old poster from the White Swan, Market Place. I would say early 1960s for the resident band, John Hodgkins at the Kapelle Jazz Club at the pub. Membership 1/- and entry 2/6d. Those were the days! Any info would be appreciated.

    1. Hello George, thanks for your comment and interest re White Swan, if you would like to send us a copy of the poster plus any info on Kapelle Jazz club we could include on White Swan page with due acknowledgements to you, There were a few Jazz clubs in Leicester at the time which have slipped under the radar in our research, so some info would be gratefully received.
      Thanks again
      Barry

  2. Thanks for your work on this project – it is a shame that it didn’t survive! You can imagine these days the planning for a new city centre development including a recreated White Swan, with its beams made from machine-planed timber that has been cursorily attacked with an adze, to give them ‘authenticity’!!

    Given the information you were sent about the Jazz Club, i thought you might be interested to hear that other genres of music apparently featured there as well – i found your webpage whilst searching for information about a venue that the young, soon-to-be star, Joni Mitchell, had performed in, in 1967.

    I enclose the link below:-
    https://jonimitchell.com/music/song.cfm?id=173

    I’ll leave it entirely to you to decide whether to add in something about this. Keep up the good work!

    1. HI , yes joni mitchell , and the spinners did there first live bbc broadcast from there in 1968 , my mum and dad had it then , was a great old pub to live in ,

      1. Happy to include, just goes to show what a great loss the White Swan is, thanks

  3. Great insight Mark, just the type of feedback we are looking for, many thanks Barry

  4. My parents, Tony and Ronnie Dobson were landlords of the White Swan from around 1959 to 1963 ish. The first stall ( that I remember) outside the pub was a toy stall and on Saturdays I would take a cheese and tomato cob to the lady that ran it and got threepence (3d) discount if I bought a toy! My mum, who is 86, sent me a photo only a couple of days ago of the frontage. White was spelt with a y (Whyte Swan Hotel), but was known affectionately by the locals as the Dirty Duck! Mild was 11d, a pint of mixed 1/0, bitter 1/1 and best was 1/3. (7 pence in today’s money).

    1. Thanks for your memories Nigel, helps paint a picture of the not to distant past

  5. My grandparents were landlords of the white swan sometime in the 1930s and 1940s
    joseph chetwynd can not find there names anywhere on line ,wondered if you have information on them.

    1. Hi Tony, sorry cant tell you much more than you already know other than Joseph kept the White Swan for perhaps nearly 25 years c1931-1955, its often the case that when there is little info on a landlord its sign of a well run pub, with little trouble, if you have a photo of your granddad perhaps we could include as he ran it for such a long time including the war years, thanks for your interest.

  6. I remember the Couriers folk club… the Dubliners, Spinners, Tom Paxton and many more…. Can’t believe I missed Joni Mitchell!

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